Somebody Tell Them...or Not

by Brad Edmonds

A group of apparently unwitting entrepreneurs calling themselves Slow Food (as opposed to fast food, I guess) has created an “endangered species” list of foods from around the world that have in common that they are rare—most are regional specialties, such as some big oysters from the Atlantic coast and black-cherry wine from Italy.  Slow Foods hopes to promote the endangered foods, resulting in increasing production and availability of them. 

This suggests one of two things about the economic education of those involved:  Either they’ve had a lot of it, or none at all.  Among the foods they’re promoting are the above-mentioned black cherry wine and certain specific varietal fruits.  Being specific to a region, such products (especially fresh fruits and vegetables) are in season only at certain times, and are expensive due to limited production.  Hence, the market is extinguishing these items, extinguishing them at least from broader distribution, because there are other items that do the job better—similar fruits that are available year-round, or are produced by major agribusinesses and therefore far less expensive, etc.  In fact, a quote from the news item linked above shows the possible dumbheadedness of the thinking behind this movement:  “We are attempting to rescue products that are in danger of dying out because there’s no market for them.”  If “no market” means people don’t want the items, the movement is doomed.  If “no market” means only that people haven’t heard of the products, well, then once they’ve heard of them, there will be a market IF the products are somehow superior. 

The latter point is where Slow Foods may be getting it right:  Perhaps the foods they list are truly superior, and it is almost assured that once they are publicized they’ll be in high demand.  This will indeed rescue the foods from extinction, since (as any economist knows) high demand will create production.  This is true even in the most extreme cases, as for example high demand for cocaine keeps creating growers and distributors, many of whom are deliberately erroneously called “pushers” when in fact their activities are pulled by the demand of the market.  If everyone stopped wanting cocaine today, the drug trade would disappear tomorrow; if everyone in the drug trade were killed today but demand remained, new drug traders would appear tomorrow.  If people start wanting farm-made raw-milk Edam cheese, there’ll be new farms soon, and this special cheese will be saved from extinction.  If Slow Foods is aware of this, then their economic thinking is better than that of the US government. 

Which brings us back to Slow Foods’ possible errors.  In some cases, such as oysters found only in a certain bay, it may not be possible to increase production.  In other cases, such as raw-milk Edam cheese, given the higher sanitary standards that must be observed, the product might remain very expensive regardless of increases in production, while imitators in Wisconsin might produce something just as good, if not identical, in flavor for a price so much lower that the real thing could never catch on.  As an example, Wisconsin’s very good imitations of parmesan cheese cost $6/lb, while the real thing is $19/lb.  The real thing is lovely, but not three times as lovely as the imitation; and the real thing will remain a niche item forever as long as the price is so high.  In still other cases, it is possible that the market just doesn’t want the thing.  Fish heads are a delicacy in Japan, and likely never will catch on in the US, regardless how they’re promoted or how available and affordable they become.  Perhaps many of the items on the endangered food list are disappearing because they should disappear. 

Any time you can try something new in a good restaurant, and that new thing doesn’t sound repulsive to you (i.e., there’s a chance you’ll really enjoy it), consider it.  The same goes for grocery shopping.  Don’t try new things for their own sake, of course; if there’s something you love, such as the 6-inch-tall liverwurst sandwich at McGuire’s Irish Pub in Destin, Florida—served with low-cholesterol potato chips, so it’s okay—it can’t hurt to keep loving it.  But always evaluate the claims of new gurus, such as Slow Foods, critically.  I intend to peruse their list of delicacies, if I can find it, but I’m also going to consider price, availability, and whether I want a thing in the first place before I plan a menu around it.  After all, you already can produce spectacular dishes of your own with perfectly common ingredients.  As an example, slice some white grapes in half, and marinate them for several hours in white wine, white wine vinegar, and black pepper; drain and use them generously as a garnish for fettuccine alfredo.  

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October 4, 2002

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Brad Edmonds, MS in Industrial Psychology, Doctor of Musical Arts, is a banker in Alabama.

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